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Monday, October 30, 2017
1745 - Why I love this time of the year
If you were to ask the typical Wyomingite, you would find
their favorite time of year is right now, and yes, it is because it is hunting
season.
It is
definitely my favorite time of year but my reasons have nothing to do with
hunting.
When I look
back on my life, most of the amazing events that occurred happened during
October and November. This, of course,
is not counting our wedding day or the births of our children.
I first met my
future wife Nancy this time of year.
We moved to Wyoming 47 years ago in
October.
We were able
to buy the Lander newspaper in November.
Seems like
most of the major media events in our lives took place at this time of year.
But the
biggest event of all had nothing to do with business. It was personal. After
three daughters, our son Michael was conceived in November and it was a
miracle, all around.
Because of
some serious health issues, my wife Nancy had had her tubes tied, so we never
thought we would have any more children.
The odds are
5000:1 that a baby can be conceived after her procedure, which is called a
tubal ligation.
For whatever
reason, when her OB-Gyn Dr. Harry Tipton, an old friend, performed this routine
sterilization procedure, it did not take.
Now we played
an awful lot of tennis that summer, but does tennis cause fallopian tubes to
grow back together after they have been severed?
To Dr.
Tipton’s surprise and our shock, “we” were pregnant. She was working for another doctor, Dr. Ralph
Hopkins, at the time and because of her increased appetite for pickles and
green apples, the other gals in Hopkins’ office conspired to have the local lab
do a urine test to find out if Nancy was pregnant, after all. Could it really
be?
The test came
back and as we old-timers like to say, the rabbit died. Whoever’s urine was submitted for that test
was, indeed, pregnant.
Dr. Hopkins asked
me to come by his office. He had something to talk with me about. I was totally
blind-sided but, with a deep breath, accepted the fact that I was about to be
the father of a fourth daughter. As a typical dad, I had always hoped for a son
during perhaps at least one of the three previous female births and, by now, assumed
it was impossible for us to produce a baby boy.
Because of
Nancy’s health issues, she had had a barrage of X-rays about the time of
conception, so we headed off to Denver to meet with some specialists about the
ramifications of how our baby could have survived such a blast of radiation.
Their
conclusions were not good. One said, “That fetus is fried.” They recommended termination.
Nancy and I
looked at each other and made a very somber decision. If we were going to give
birth to a special needs child, then so be it.
We would love this child and live with the consequences.
Nancy went
full term and even a little past. We did not know if our baby was a boy or a
girl but let me tell you, it seemed to me to be the longest pregnancy in
history. We were scared to death during
the entire time.
Dr. Tipton
asked to participate in the C-section and said he would then make sure Nancy’s
tubal ligation was permanent this time. Plus he wanted to see what had happened
to his first procedure.
Nancy gave
birth to a healthy baby. As I recall it,
there had been 10 boys born in a row in our local hospital. Thus, I totally
assumed new little daughter Page was about to join her three sisters in our family.
So at Lander’s Bishop Randall
Hospital, all the doctors even wore blue.
We were
blessed and shocked to see a healthy little boy emerge. I had also scrubbed for the event and videotaped
the entire process.
People all
over were praying for us, as it was well known just how unique this whole pregnancy
ended up being.
Today, 36
years later, our son Michael is happily married and working hard in Warden,
Washington. He and his wife Lisa have
four children and are leading a wonderful life.
We just visited them there.
But please
indulge me a little this time of year as I reflect on just how blessed a family
can be during Wyoming’s famous fall weather.
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Thursday, October 26, 2017
1744 - Is Yellowstone going to explode?
So far, 2017 has been an extraordinary year for natural
disasters with three hurricanes and awful wildfires. What possibly could come
next?
According to
some folks, it could the big blow – the eruption of the famous Yellowstone
National Park Supervolcano. Or perhaps just an earthquake?
But first,
let’s just ponder for a moment the extreme forces that have struck our country
this year. Few folks can recall a time in America when gigantic hurricanes the
size of Harvey, Irma and Maria slammed into Texas, Florida and Puerto Rico.
And those
wildfires in California have been the deadliest in that state’s history with
more than 40 people dead and 6,000 homes and buildings destroyed. Prior to
those fires, deadly fires struck Montana and Canada in late summer.
So what gives?
Do these events portend the beginning of the end of the world?
Well, probably
not yet. But what is next? Well, heck,
why not the Yellowstone National Park caldera causing havoc?
Mark Davis of
the Powell Tribune wrote an excellent
article recently about this possibility, which for him was a “local” story. If
the park volcano acts up, Powell will pretty much become toast.
As well as Worland, Lander, Riverton, Rawlins, Rock Springs,
Kemmerer and Evanston.
Davis wrote a
news story quoting the world’s foremost expert on the Yellowstone caldera, Dr.
Bob Smith, of the University of Utah.
Davis wrote that Smith has worked
in Yellowstone since 1956 and has been a professor of geophysics for 50 years.
“Global appreciation for Yellowstone didn’t come about until
2005, when the BBC produced The Super
Volcano. It brought the world’s attention to Yellowstone,” Smith said.
Smith nonchalantly stated the facts
of a Yellowstone super volcano eruption at a recent lecture: An eruption that
could last for days, weeks or even years, five to 10 times more powerful than
the 1990 Pinatubo eruption in the Philippines that killed 700 — spewing enough
material to fill the Grand Canyon twice and a volcanic winter, possibly for
years, at temperatures of about 15 degrees Fahrenheit.
He reported: “A recent earthquake
swarm — and the press from those on the sensationalizing end of the media — has
worried many that the rumbling is a precursor to a volcanic eruption. Since
June 12, more than 15,000 earthquakes have been documented. Most are weak, but
are earthquakes nonetheless, Smith said. ‘It’s one of the biggest earthquake
swarms we’ve ever had,’ he said.
But Smith’s concerns aren’t of the
dangers of a super volcano eruption. The chances of that happening are
extremely small, he said. However, before the warm comfort of the statement
could settle in, he warned of the real natural killer in the region.
“What’s the biggest hazard in Yellowstone? Earthquakes.
They’re killers,” Smith said.
On Aug. 17, 1959, a 7.5 magnitude
earthquake rocked Hebgen Lake, Montana, killing 28 people. It was the last
devastating earthquake to hit the greater Yellowstone ecosystem. By that time
Smith was already into his third year of work in the nation’s first national
park.
“The question being asked by the
rangers at Lake and Mammoth — ‘Are we going to have a big earthquake or
volcanic eruption?’ — led us to try to understand how swarms work,” Smith said.
Smith
theorizes that when the earthquakes stop, that is the time to start worrying.
Yes, Yellowstone is a super
volcano, which has erupted at least three times before. Once was 2.1 million years ago. The second
one was 1.3 million years ago and the last one was 645,000 years ago.
So what would
be the signals that YNP might act up again?
For decades in
the last century, geologists were mystified by the lack of a discernible
volcano cone in Yellowstone as they tried to locate the caldera. Ultimately,
satellite images helped them realize that almost the entire park is the
cone. It is 50 miles long and 25 miles
wide. Much of the vast Yellowstone Lake makes up this location.
Some experts
point to a bulge that is more than 100 feet high at the bottom of Yellowstone
Lake near Mary Bay. The bulge is more
than 2,100 feet long and has only formed in the last few years. One expert
asked, “Is this a precursor to a hydrothermal explosive event?”
Yes,
Yellowstone is one very, very large volcano. It would have a destructive force
ten thousand times that of Mount St. Helens. It could truly be a world-defining
event. And those of us who love Yellowstone and live about two hours from it,
well, we might just become a memory.
Some of the
features of the TV show five years ago that were interesting included quite a
few scenes of a fictional Cheyenne, which it treated as a major national city.
Amen to that.
The beginning and ending tagline of
the BBC program was: “This is a true story. It just has not happened yet.”
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Tuesday, October 24, 2017
1743 - Plodding along the modern Oregon Trail
It seems as though whenever we find ourselves crossing the east-central
and west-central parts of Wyoming by motor vehicle, I try to imagine what this
trip must have been like for pioneers on the Oregon-California-Mormon Trail.
Some 350,000
of these hearty souls crossed the country along a route that spanned the entire
width of present-day Wyoming. Their
wagon trains entered the state on the eastern edge between Torrington and Lusk
and headed toward Fort Laramie, by way of the Lingle area.
The first
mountain they ever saw was Laramie Peak, which towers 10,276 feet above the
plains west of present-day Wheatland. What
an inspiration that must have been!
Because the power they were using
came from oxen and horses, they needed to stay close to rivers and grass. Lots
of grass.
Thus, they
followed the North Platte River north and west near what today is Casper. They
soon encountered the Sweetwater River, which they followed upstream all the way
to the mystical South Pass. This famous pass is literally the “hole in the wall,”
that allowed America (and Americans) to satisfy its manifest destiny by heading
west and claiming the western third of Wyoming, Idaho, Oregon and California.
South Pass was
nature’s oddball notch in the length of the towering Rocky Mountains. This gap allowed wagon trains to pass through
and head west.
It took a
series of coincidental places such as the rivers, the grasslands and the notch
in the mountains to make the whole thing possible. Without water or grass or
South Pass, the westward march would have been much more difficult.
As I write
this, I had just joined the trail for this trip at South Pass.
We were on our
way to Las Vegas where we planned to spend a couple of weeks soaking up the
heat. Then we would put the old rig in storage until we headed back to Vegas
sometime around Feb. 1 for a month or two.
We were
driving down the road in our 12-year old motorhome, just west of Farson, when I
noticed that our house batteries were not charging.
So what the
heck was wrong with my house batteries?
Not sure if
anyone out there cares, but a motorhome has, essentially, two electrical
systems. The normal motor vehicle system
has two big 12-volt batteries that operate the starter and provide power for
the headlights and normal driving-type functions.
The coach,
meanwhile, has six big 6-volt batteries that operate everything from the refrigerator
to the air conditioning when the rig is not plugged into an outside electrical
source.
Yes, it is
possible to drive without the coach batteries, but this is not a good
situation.
I thought
about stopping at Little America but it was such a nice day and the rig was driving
so well so I crossed my fingers and just kept on going.
We passed the
road to Kemmerer and I was tempted to go visit my friend Vince Tomassi at his
car dealership. Surely, they could help
get my batteries functioning? But then
again, gosh it was such a nice day, and so I kept on going.
As we passed
the turnoff to the Lyman-Mountain View-Fort
Bridger area, I tried to imagine what it must have been like to have
been an Oregon Trail traveler 160 years ago in this spot. What would you do if your house batteries
were on the fritz in your old reliable Conestoga? You would probably plan a
stop at Fort Bridger to make repairs.
But I motored
on.
Next potential
stop was Evanston where our former Lander bookkeeper, Marsha Redding, operates
Spanky’s Bar. Since our rig is 40 feet
long and weighs over 30,000 pounds and also with the car being towed, I decided
it was not a good idea to stop.
When I got to
Interstate 80, the weather was windy. Sure enough, as soon as we left the
state, the wind died down. The legend of Wyoming’s big winds continued for
another day.
We waved
good-bye to our Wyoming as we headed on to Salt Lake City and then all the way
to St. George, Utah, where we spent the night.
We got to Las
Vegas the next day and everything got fixed.
Like many a
trail master, I had conquered adversity and made it to my destination. Then I
heard it was starting to snow back in Lander. It was 91 degrees in Sin City. I
had to wipe a satisfied smirk off my face.
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Friday, October 13, 2017
1742 - Texas once claimed part of Wyoming
Folks who love Wyoming really love the Red Desert, which
spans a huge area across south west-central part of the state.
One popular place
is the Tri-Territory Historic Site, where the space now known as Wyoming, is
shown to have been parts of three vast landowners: France’s Louisiana Purchase,
Britain’s Northwest Territory and Mexico.
And yet it is
highly possible there is a small spot in Wyoming that once was bordered by four
different territories, parts of which together became the future home of our
great state.
This spot is
somewhere in a corner of Sweetwater, Fremont, Natrona or Carbon County,
according to a map created by Velma Linford in her amazing history of Wyoming
in 1947 called Wyoming Frontier State.
This one amazing
spot touched countries and territories that were the Louisiana Purchase in
1803, Texas in 1845, Mexico in 1848, and Oregon in 1846.
All of these
places ultimately became parts of the United States. Then in 1890 (127 years
ago this year) the U. S. Congress created a big rectangle that became the state
of Wyoming.
First big
owner of much of these territories was Spain as a result of Columbus’s
“discovery” of North America in 1492.
Not much
happened for a long time except that whenever Indian tribes were exposed to
white men, they were nearly wiped out by diseases for which they had no natural
defenses.
Jesuit
Missionaries Marquette and Joliet, who were the first white men to discover the
huge drainage of the Mississippi River, claimed a vast area for France. At this
time, the southwest corner of future Wyoming was presumably controlled by Spain
and the northwest corner by England.
In 1803,
President Jefferson negotiated the Louisiana Purchase for $15 million from
Napoleon who was in the midst of a terrible war of attrition with Great
Britain. At that point, about two thirds of the future state of Wyoming became
part of the USA.
Jefferson, in
1804, sent Lewis and Clark to find out what he had purchased and they skirted
our area because they were following the Missouri River. One of the Corps of
Discovery’s members, John Colter, was one of the first white men to venture
into our future state.
Mexico
rebelled against Spain in 1821 and finally secured its own land in 1824. Mexico claimed land all the way to
present-day Idaho and owned about 10 percent of present-day Wyoming.
The Spaniards
had explored the Green River all the way up into Wyoming and reportedly claimed
all that drainage.
A man named
Moses Austin dreamed of an independent Texas nation. That job was later
finished by his son Stephen. By 1835,
there were 35,000 Americans in Texas and it was ripe for prying itself away
from Mexico.
Texas won independence
in 1836, despite all those deaths at the Alamo, but its boundaries were subject
to dispute. Its initial claim included a finger of land that reached all the
way into the heart of Wyoming.
The battle
call of “fifty-four forty or fight” was what finally rallied Americans to force
England to give up Oregon in 1846.
That was a
pivotal year because the USA also went to war with Mexico and ended up in 1848
with a vast swath of land from California to Colorado, which again included
that 10 percent chunk of future Wyoming. After the U. S. won that war, it paid
$15 million to Mexico as a way to prove itself a good neighbor and to prevent
future wars.
By 1848, some
42 years before becoming a state, the land that today encompasses all of
present-day Wyoming was firmly under the ownership of the United States. It
took four decades to establish the final property lines.
Not sure if
everyone agrees with Velma Linford’s map or her conclusions, but it might be
interesting for some enterprising person to go back into the files and try to
determine where this “four corners” area of Wyoming would be located.
Going by her
map, as much I want to believe part of it might be in Fremont County, it surely
could be right in the middle of Carbon County. There is already that
Tri-Territory marker in Sweetwater County recognizing three of the territories
but not mentioning the Texas claim.
So I tip my
hat to Ms. Linford, who later became state superintendent of schools.
Her book was
used as a textbook for years in Wyoming schools. Like so many wonderful history
books that have been published about Wyoming over the years, it is hard for me
to catch up with each one.
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Friday, October 6, 2017
1741 - Interstate 80 is Snow Chi Minh Trail in winter
Back in 1978, I wrote an angry column about a stretch of
Interstate 80, where I described a nightmarish drive in winter conditions.
My memories
are still vivid as I recall how scary winter driving could be along that route.
These memories
came back while I was perusing a new book about Interstate 80. The book’s title
is Snow Chi Minh Trail, the history of
Interstate 80 between Laramie and Walcott Junction.
Author John
Waggener is a native of Green River who works as an archivist at the American Heritage
Center at University of Wyoming in Laramie.
Waggener’s wonderful
book is chock full of facts and important notations about a stretch of road
that can be a mess for innocent travelers trying to cross the country.
My column 39
years ago was describing a trip back to Wyoming from a Thanksgiving holiday in
Iowa. We had headed out of Laramie but had to turn back because of a blizzard. Then the road was reopened and we found
ourselves in that same blizzard, all over again. “The wind was 60 mph and the
ground blizzard was blinding,” I wrote.
Back in those
days, I had a Citizen Band (CB) radio and we heard from truckers about a big
crash up ahead with semi-trailer trucks involved and cars off the road. “We were 26 miles out of Laramie and headed
into a mess while driving in a total, blinding blizzard.”
I concluded
that column by writing: “Your vehicle must be well-equipped and a CB radios is
a must. In the winter, that road is a mess.”
Lady Bird
Johnson, the former First Lady, has always been blamed for the highway being built
in that place instead of the route of old Highway 30. It was because of her
beautiful highway initiative. Waggener says not true. It is a myth.
Instead there
were some very stubborn federal officials, headed by a rock head named Frank Turner,
who were obsessed with the new road cutting off 19 “unnecessary miles,”
compared to the route used by U. S. 30 through Rock River and Medicine Bow.
Waggener even
recalls a heated exchange between Turner and former U. S. Senator Gale McGee. Turner
prevailed.
Wyoming people
fought valiantly in the 1960s to keep the new road out of the mountains. The
federal people would not listen to them and threatened to not build it, unless
it could be built on their route through the mountains.
Waggener says
there are other places in Wyoming along Interstate 80 that offer problems, such
as the Summit between Laramie and Cheyenne, but nothing compares to that
daunting 77-mile trip from Laramie to Walcott Junction.
Us old-timers
recall a famous CBS TV newsman named Charles Kuralt, whose specialty was
traveling the country and reporting on out-of-the-way places.
He famously
declared that the stretch from Laramie-Walcott Junction was “the worst stretch
of interstate highway in America.”
Waggener says
another myth was the mystery surrounding why the Wyoming Department of
Transportation re-built a stretch of highway 30 between Bosler and near Rock
River as a four-lane road?
He points out
the road needed re-building and speculation was that WYDOT favored the U.S. 30 route
for the new interstate highway and was making a statement by creating a
four-lane stretch on Highway 30 back in the late 1960s.
Waggener also
discloses that the Union Pacific Railroad chose not to build along this route
because of the wind and the snow.
He reveals studies,
which explained why there are such vicious winds near the Elk Mountain area. Due
to the gap next to the mountain being the lowest elevation of the Rocky
Mountains, wind blows at abnormally high velocities as the air rushes through
there, causing havoc in the roads and stirring up the large amounts of snow
that pile up.
On a personal
note, I have driven Interstate 80 for almost 50 years and I still avoid the
Snow Chi Minh Trail stretch during extreme winter weather.
One reason is
the horrible snow and wind. A second reason is the huge increase in truck
traffic, which makes driving along that stretch sort of a game of Russian roulette.
Perhaps a
third reason is that I like visiting the Virginian Hotel in Medicine Bow, which
is one of the coolest places in the state.
About the only
positive that Waggener pulls out of this discussion over the near half century
of the Snow Chi Minh Trail’s existence is that the invention of the best snow
fences in the world have resulted from this spectacular testing area.
The book is available
from the Wyoming State Historical Society and fine stores around the state.
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Monday, October 2, 2017
1740 - Old-timers and newcomers in state news
It’s been awhile since we wrote a little roundup
of what is going on around the Cowboy State. Here goes:
•
“Why are all these people dressed up like cowboys?” a tourist innocently asked
Eric Olsen, who owns a western wear store in Lander.
Not
sure how Eric answered, but it might have had something to do with the fact
that, yes, they really were cowboys.
I
imagine tourists ask the same thing around Lou Taubert’s in Casper and various
other “cowboy” stores in Wyoming.
We
used to joke that the only people wearing cowboy hats all the time were
auctioneers, authors and realtors. Most
real cowboys wear baseball caps when they are working. And yet it seems to me that I see way more
cowboys wearing cowboy hats all the time than I used to. Not sure if that is true and not sure why?
Nancy
and I own a tiny little pasture and we were thinking of buying a few cows. Meat on the hoof, you see. Some good grass-fed beef would help the
budget and be healthy, too.
My
old friend Ray Hunkins of Cheyenne probably knows as much about ranching as
anyone I know, so I asked him how to get my tiny herd started.
He
gave some advice but followed it up with the admonition, “and get yourself a
BIG hat.” I think he was referring to
the old expression “big hat, no cattle,” which was a demeaning remark coming
from real cattle-raising people about pretenders, such as myself. Or perhaps for all those auctioneers, authors
and realtors, too.
•
Wyoming’s oldest person, Grace Carlson, 109, of Meeteetse, died in July this
year.
And
contrary to a column that I wrote back in February where it was reported that
Leonard Ross, 107, of Jackson, was the oldest person. No, he was not. And sadly Leonard has died since that column
was written.
Grace
Carlson was married to her husband Edgar for 71 years. She lived in her current home in Meeteetse
the last 57 years of her life.
Wyoming’s
oldest person now appears to be Lloyd Baker, 106, of Etna since Betty Schelliner,
105, of Douglas, also recently passed away.
Lloyd celebrated his 106th birthday by
singing and dancing in his hometown. He
appears to be enjoying his first year of retirement. Up to last year, he still went to work every
day at his surveying company.
Baker credits his long life to an active
lifestyle and his diet of sweet, salty snacks, which includes a bag of peanut
M&Ms each day, according to a report on Townsquare Media’s King Radio. Can
anyone out there help out if you know anyone in Wyoming older than Lloyd?
•
Despite our heavy snows, cold weather and high winds, Wyoming people can feel
pretty darned lucky when compared with what people in Houston, Florida and
Puerto Rico have been going through.
Has
America ever seen a trifecta of horrible weather hit during such a brief time?
Hurricane Harvey hit in late August, Hurricane Irma in early September and
Hurricane Marie in mid-September.
The
devastation has been immense and it has been nice to see Wyoming people
stepping up to help.
One
weather-watcher said that if Wyoming received 50 inches of moisture like
Houston did, and it came as snow, we would be buried under 60 feet of the white
stuff. Wow.
It
seemed to me that forgotten in all this weather news was the tragedy northwest
of us. In Montana and other states thousands of acres of timber, grassland,
homes and outbuildings burned. Our
atmosphere was nearly as smoky as I can ever recall during much of August and
September. Only worse time would have
been the 1988 Yellowstone fires and during the Anchor Dam area fire a few
decades ago. Oddly, we had a nice respite during the eclipse on Aug. 21, which
was a break.
•
One last eclipse note: I have always wondered why the sun and moon look like
they are the same sized spheres to us on earth?
The
sun is 400 times larger and 400 times farther away and yet the two biggest
objects in our sky are almost identical in size, when looked at by the human
eye.
Scientists
consider it just a fluky coincidence while true believers think it is a special
sign from someone higher above. And thus, the eclipse becomes way more
significant to these folks than just one object blocking out the other.
All
I know is that I want to see another eclipse some time. It was one of the most
memorable experiences that I can recall.
And
it was fun to share it with 1.5 million people watching it on Wyoming soil.
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