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Wednesday, May 31, 2017
1723 - 8 generations in Wyoming
Although they have had eight generations living in Wyoming,
the Driskill clan of Devils Tower originally came from Texas and as a result, it
seems most everything about these folks is big.
State Sen. Ogden
Driskill (R-Devils Tower) showed my wife Nancy and me around northeast Wyoming
recently but also shared some of the more interesting things about his unusual
clan.
As for big, Ogden
was feeling pretty good about his newfound self, weighing just 315 pounds.
During lunch in Hulett, he was eating a salad. I had the french dip and fries.
During the
recent Legislative session, he ballooned to 345 pounds on his 6-1 frame as a
result of good eats and not so good stress.
He and his colleagues had a difficult time cutting expenses to balance
the budget during trying economic times.
The Driskill
ranch is comprised of 10,000 acres that abuts Devils Tower on two sides. Campbell Soup heir John Dorrance’s family
owns the ranches on the other two sides.
Way back in
the 1880s, the Driskill clan was doing well in Texas rounding up longhorn
cattle and driving them to Wyoming. Over the decades, Ogden estimates over a
million cattle were driven north on the Chisholm Trail.
One of his
forebears, Jesse Lincoln Driskill, made enough money selling beef to both sides
in the Civil War, that he built the most spectacular hotel in Texas, for
$400,000, in Austin.
Ultimately he
went broke, as his confederate money was worthless.
In 1878, Jesse
Lincoln of the Driskill clan hired an African-American driver, bought a used
confederate ambulance, and drove north to the Black Hills. He wanted a place in the hills to winter
cattle and where there were no towns for 30 miles. He picked Devils Tower.
The ranch is
at 3,850 feet, which is nearly the lowest elevation in the state. Without getting into an argument about
climate change, Driskill says if they used to winter cattle in that area 130
years ago, it cannot be done today.
Ogden’s
brother Matt operated a KOA campground at the base on Devils Tower but
unfortunately was killed in an accident six years ago. Matt was also a well-respected
member of the Wyoming Travel Commission. By his being on the ranch, it allowed
Ogden to run for the state senate and be gone during the legislative sessions
in January and February.
After Matt died,
it has been difficult. Ogden’s wife Rosanne,
who is the daughter of Lysite artist Gary Shoop, now keeps tabs on the
campground, which is a thriving business.
The punch line
to the story of the campground, though, occurred over 40 years earlier when
director Stephen Spielberg sat at the family’s kitchen table and offered them
$40,000 if he could use their land at the base for his movie Close Encounters of a Third Kind.
The huge flat
graveled area left over by Spielberg, became the base for the campground and
other stores in that area.
Folks in neighboring
Hulett are planning a 40th anniversary celebration later this year
to celebrate the movie being filmed there.
We had
originally planned to take our motorhome and stay at their campground but Ogden
said, “heck no, stay in my guest house.”
We did and
wow, what a place! It is not just a guesthouse
but also the original home place for the Campstool Ranch. It contains four
bedrooms, three baths and a spectacular view out the big living room windows of
Devils Tower.
We had always
wanted to spend more time in the Wyoming Black Hills in the extreme northeast
corner of the state and on this trip, we got that done. We had a personal tour
of the Vore Buffalo Jump by Glen Wyatt, where some 15,000 bison plunged to
their deaths over the last 600 years.
The town of Aladdin
is pretty much one amazing country store which was sold at auction June 2 for
$500,000. Some South Dakota buyers made a great deal on an amazing treasure
trove of “stuff.”
The famous
Ranch A, which is owned by the state of Wyoming, thanks to the Nels Smith
family, was busy when we stopped by, but what a wonderful building in a
terrific location on Sand Creek. It cost
$1 million to build in the 1930s.
And, of
course, we spent time walking around Devils Tower. We ran into old friend Jeff
Rose of Lingle, who was going to climb the tower with his daughter. They did it, too.
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Sunday, May 28, 2017
1722 - Impending 100 year flood is scaring us
A
flooding mountain river in Wyoming can be an “insatiable monster.” That is what I called the middle fork of the
Popo Agie River here in Lander seven years ago when we experienced a 50-year
flood event.
Unfortunately, based on snowpack in the
mountains, it is entirely possible we will see a 100-year flood event this
year.
For those of us who lived through what
occurred here in 2010, it is hard to imagine that it could get any worse.
But snowpack levels, as I write this, are
at 326 percent of historical averages.
This is just an astonishing amount of water and snow.
Much of Wyoming has been in a flood watch
over the past two weeks.
Back in 2010, high water victimized folks
in Fremont, Albany, Johnson, Platte, Natrona, Carbon and Sweetwater counties.
Here in Lander we were in the middle of one
of the largest public disaster effort in the state’s history.
Millions of dollars were spent. Some 400 National Guard soldiers were
here. Over 500,000 sand bags were
filled. Over 35,000 hours of volunteer effort were documented.
Fire departments were supposed to gather
in Lander on that weekend for their annual convention but it was cancelled due
to the flooding. Some 11 counties sent
emergency crews to help out anyway. At one point, more than 32 square miles of (normally
dry) Fremont County land was under water.
There were 43 different agencies involved
in our local effort.
One of the main reasons we moved to
Wyoming 47 years ago was the Popo Agie River that runs through Lander.
This mountain stream is one of those
rivers that you see pictured on calendars.
That image whetted the appetite for this young Midwesterner who yearned
to get to the mountains.
But our friendly little stream had turned
into quite the angry foe. We always thought we were lucky to live along this
river. Its bank was about 500 yards from
us. After the flood, it is now about 450
yards away.
We also have Big Dickinson Creek running
through our back yard. Yes, that is the creek that in 1963 caused the worst
flood in Lander’s history.
Our personal flooding woes started June 4,
2010, when water breached some riverbanks at a rural residence upriver. The storm of water that gushed through our
property swamped the creek bed and caused water in basements downstream from
us.
Firemen and officials were diligent in
trying to figure out where the water was coming from and getting it stopped.
State Sen. Cale Case, who is also president of the Lander Ditch Association,
did yeoman work in getting a dike built.
After that incident, the town seemed safe
until June 8 when a surge knocked out Mortimore Lane Bridge, washed out a half
acre of my land, sucked a cabin off our property and pretty much scoured the
riverbed.
Beautiful private homes along the river
belonging to Carl and Anne Huhnke (president of Central Bank and Trust) and
Chuck and Cathy Guschewsky (CEO of Fremont Motors) were severely threatened
and, at times, looked like they were going to wash away.
At Lander’s City Park, the river was almost
100 yards wide in some places.
Watching huge machines dump gigantic
boulders onto the bank of a levee only to see the river suck the rocks away was
awesome. It reminded me of a movie scene
where you are feeding an insatiable monster.
Like Little Shop of Horrors where the monster says “Feed me! Feed
me!”
And as we waited for the high water, it
also felt like being a town under siege.
We knew the enemy was out there but did not know when it would attack or
how big their force would be. Unease all around. Folks were tense and sleep-deprived for days
on end.
Folks in Hudson, Riverton and all over
the Wind River Indian Reservation were flooded about the same time too, as
water from the three forks of the Popo Agie, the Little Wind and the Big Wind
surged.
Joe Austin of the National Outdoor
Leadership School got sucked into a culvert while volunteering. He disappeared
before everyone’s eyes. Miraculously, he
was shot out the other end and emerged from the river very wet, very shaken but
very much alive. It occurred on his 52nd
birthday.
There were no injuries or deaths. Then-Lander Mayor Mick Wolfe had a bandaged
right hand, a sandbagging injury. “I
wasn’t watching and a gal speared me with a spade. I am not as quick as I used to be,” he
commented dryly.
About the only good news came from the
Wyoming Department of Health whose officials thought many of the West Nile
mosquito nests were washed away – maybe all the way to Nebraska.
Back in 2010, I wrapped up a column that
I had written about the raging Popo Agie River with this final series of
comments about its name:
Most folks pronounce it Poposha.
Some old-timers call it Popo Aggie.
One historian says it is Popo Argee.
Lately, I have been calling it Popo
Angry.
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Friday, May 19, 2017
1721 - Hey grads, your learning days are not over!
I
am not afraid of tomorrow for I have seen yesterday and I love today. – William Allen White
This is a
message for 2017 graduates – there are just two times in your lives when you
feel you are done with learning and just do not want to learn any more.
First is when
you graduate. Enough already! You have
had your poor brain filled with so much stuff in your young life, that you are
ready to just go out there in the working world and start using all that
knowledge.
The second
time is when you reach a certain mature age and you are tired of having to
learn how to use all these fancy gadgets. This is when you find yourself having
your grandchildren program your smartphone or show you how to use the remote on
the your new TV.
This column
concerns the first situation.
I have given
talks to graduates before and this is my annual message to high school and
college graduates as they finally head off into the working world.
This year, new
grads can expect like never before to face careers of constant learning and
re-learning.
The pace of
technological breakthroughs today is breathtaking. There is barely a business
today that isn’t heavily invested in the internet, cloud computing and even
artificial intelligence.
Today, we live
today in a 24/7-information overload existence.
It used to be
that social skills were a great asset for workers. Today, you need to add the
word social media skills to that phrase.
A favorite
quote: “The problem with our times is that the future is not what it used to
be.” How true.
So, to you new
grads, what can you do about it? How can
you make a good future for yourself in the face of such uncertainty?
As a person
who is even older than your parents, I can stress your number-one advantage in
coping with all this is your youth. However
this all turns out, if you work hard and pay attention, you will be a better
person because of all the uncertain times you will live through.
A sense of
responsibility and good character often do not come from an easy life. They come from overcoming adversity and
surviving tests that are often unpleasant.
The real definition of maturity is where a person ends up after dealing
with a series of problems and solving them. You do not mature by running away
from or hiding from your problems. Or having someone else solve your problems.
It was free
enterprise, capitalism and rugged individualism that made this country great. I
hope you grads can grasp these concepts and realize how they can make a big
impact on how you will be able to survive these interesting times.
My parents and
grandparents used words like “gumption” to describe someone who worked extra
hard to try to get ahead. What your
generation of graduating seniors needs, to cope with what’s ahead, is gumption.
Now here are
four secrets about what you should do to get ahead:
• Although
working hard is a virtue, working “smart” is genius.
• Education is the key but I am not
talking about advanced degrees here. I
am talking about identifying a field you would like to work in and then
learning everything you can about it. Best way to do this is talking with
people in the field. Or volunteering to
work in the fringe parts of that industry.
Scanning the Internet for everything you can find out about trends in
that field helps, too. Honestly, you can
never learn enough.
• It is not whom you know or what
you know that counts in getting a good career going. It is whom you know AND what you know that
will make all the difference. Locate and cultivate mentors.
• Timing is the single most
important thing in getting ahead. You
must stay on top of trends and always, always check which way the economic
winds are blowing. You must be a man or
woman of action. Jump when you need to,
but look before you leap.
Earlier I said that your youth is
your greatest asset. You sit there at
your graduation as an unformed human being.
Your whole world is out there ahead of you.
Although scary, this is the most
exciting time to be alive. Approach these times with optimism and love for your
fellow human beings (plus gumption) and you should turn out just fine.
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Monday, May 15, 2017
1720 - My life is like a long baseball game
It was 21 years
ago this spring that my old friend Loraine Ocenas emceed my 50th
birthday party and claimed its theme was: “How does it feel to have your future
behind you?”
My answer, of course, was “my best
years are ahead of me” and indeed, that turned out to be true.
Now at 71, if someone asked me the same
thing at a similar party, I might attempt to say the same thing, but perhaps
not quite so vigorously.
Where did all those years go? An awful lot has happened both to me and to
the world we live in.
That 50th birthday party was
in 1996. There barely was an internet back then and cell phones were, well,
they were just phones. The first smartphone did not come out until 11 years
later in 2007.
We had 2 grandchildren back on those
days. Today we have 13 plus a great-grandchild on the way. We have seen our own children grow up and
build lives on their own.
I like to give talks to graduation
ceremonies. One of the things that I always tell the graduates is that my
over-riding feeling during my graduation was simply: “What is going to happen
to me?”
Well, I know what happened to me. Generally,
it is pretty satisfying to look back with warm feelings at all those events and
occurrences which make up the milestones in a person’s long life.
Celebrating our 50th wedding
anniversary last year certainly is near the top of the list.
But those grandchildren – wow, are they
ever special. Grandchildren have a purpose in life. That purpose is to show you that you have a
hidden place in your heart. And that place is full of love for someone you are
just finally getting to know.
We joke that our job as grandparents is
to spoil-em and sugar-em up and then send them home!
Our children might be thinking that we
consider them chopped liver because we will travel thousands of miles to see
those wonderful grandkids.
During a 50-year-plus career, I always
wanted to own businesses and we were fortunate in having that opportunity. We owned newspapers, print shots, magazines,
book companies, and a half interest in an Internet company with our daughter
Shelli Johnson and even an advertising agency.
We worked with wonderful people who
became like members of our family. It
was easy to deeply care about people who worked side-by-side with you on all
those various endeavors.
Charity work was always important to
Nancy and me and we believed in the pay it forward philosophy. We often got
more out of these projects then we expended.
Some years ago, I wrote a piece called
“the 20 things I learned in 50 years of business.” One of those was to “love your
customers.” We really did love ours, and
that is something that I miss a lot now that we are not going to work every
day.
Over the years, we managed to indulge
ourselves in big-boy toys like a nice boat, a motorhome and even an
airplane.
After flying for 30 years, we quit when
a detached retina seven years ago made that a risky business. But what a joy it
is to fly over a wonderful state like Wyoming!
If you love this state from the ground, you need to see it from
above. I just could not get enough of
it.
Recently Nancy and I visited Flaming
Gorge where we kept a boat for 10 years.
Sure made us nostalgic. But our
boating days are over too.
Our old motorhome, nicknamed Follow My
Nose, is not a toy but a real home for us. We like to travel south in the
winter in it to get away from cold and snow.
We have made great friends with that lifestyle.
About the only big-boy toys we managed
to avoid were horses. We do rent out our pasture to horse-lovers, so we get to
see horses everyday.
A coffee klatch called the Fox News
All-Stars puts up with me as we sit around telling lies most every morning at
the Inn at Lander. Been attending that group for 47 years.
Our lives have not all been rosy.
Watching family and friends get ill or die has been difficult. Dealing with
stubborn illnesses has not been fun. But you soldier on and finally reach your
seventh decade.
At my age, I
am finally a grown up. It takes men a long, long time to develop. Luckily I
married a very mature woman, who at the age of 19 was more mature than I was at
50.
Guys are
just guys.
Face it; we
go stumbling along, scratching ourselves in embarrassing places and making
horrible noises at the wrong time. We often are selfish and we don’t talk much.
I used to refer to my life as four
quarters, like a football game. If so, we are definitely in the fourth quarter.
Today, I prefer to think of life as a nine-inning
baseball game. I am now in the middle of the seventh inning. It’s time for a
nice stretch.
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Saturday, May 6, 2017
1719 - Uden murders subject of TV show
Investigation
Discovery, a network featuring the solving of horrible crimes, was in Wyoming
this past week filming the story about how Virginia Uden and her two sons were
murdered in Fremont County 37 years ago.
Their bodies have never been recovered
but law enforcement folks think they know where the bodies are located; the
murderer has confessed and is serving time for the crime.
I was interviewed by the TV crew sent
to Lander for the story. We shall see if I get any air time.
After 37 years of a cold case like this
one, it has always been easy to believe that some unsolved disappearances will
just never be explained.
In Lander, we long pondered how
Virginia and her sons Reagan, 11, and Richard, 10, vanished. Their horrible
fate is now known.
Coincidentally, Virginia worked at our Wyoming State Journal in Lander. It seemed odd to be writing these horrible
stories about a person I knew. We often pondered how a person could disappear
into thin air during these modern times when everybody seems to know everything
about everybody.
But this mystery seemed destined to be
perpetually unsolved. Then, just like that, it was solved.
And the answers to all of those
one-third of a century-old questions were as horrific and grisly as anyone
could have possibly imagined.
Gerald Uden was a worker at the U. S.
Steel iron ore mine at Atlantic City, some 25 miles south of Lander in the Wind
River Mountains. Co-worker Kim Curtis
remembered him as being “scary.”
Virginia must have seen something in
the guy as she was married to him for six years. Uden even adopted her two sons.
Three years ago, if you were watching
TV or reading the newspaper, you knew what happened next. The story was on CNN, ABC and The New York
Times among all the other state and national media outlets. The story was impossible to ignore; if you
proposed to write about the Uden crimes as fiction, the story would not sell
because it is so unbelievable.
My wife Nancy and I have positive
memories of Virginia.
Virginia did
some surveying and telemarketing for our newspaper. She had recently divorced
Gerald and was desperate for money. She was working as many jobs as she could
to make ends meet.
Gerald Uden and his new wife Alice both
worked at the iron ore mine on South Pass.
As it turned out, Alice had earlier murdered her 25-year old husband and
dumped his body down a mineshaft in Albany County.
Then they conspired to rid Gerald of
his obligations.
An acquaintance of Alice’s, who worked
with her at the mine, reported that Alice was always complaining about Gerald
never having any money because he had to support Virginia and the kids. Thus,
money appears to be the motive for the taking of these three lives.
On a fall day in September 1980, Gerald
Uden convinced Virginia and her two boys to meet him in Pavillion, Wyoming, for
some target practice. He waited until
Virginia and Reagan had their backs turned to him and shot them both in the
back of the head. He had to chase down Richard before shooting him in the head,
too. He stashed her car down a deep
canyon off the Dickinson Park Road in the mountains west of Fort Washakie.
The photos of the Uden boys may still be
appearing on milk cartons. There were
millions of images of the Udens spread across the country.
Officers finally found Alice’s
husband’s body three years ago and that led them to her and Gerald, then living
in Missouri. He was a long-haul truck driver.
Once confronted, Gerald confessed to the murders.
Meanwhile, Fremont County officers
never gave up trying to connect the dots.
Credit also goes to a UW archeologist who, with eight students, spent
some awful summer days in 2008 digging around in Uden’s old pigsty in
Pavillion, looking for evidence of the Uden bodies. They were unsuccessful.
At this point, Gerald Uden, 74, has
confessed as has his wife Alice, 77. Both are serving the rest of their lives
in Wyoming prisons.
What happened to the bodies, which was
a mystery for more than three decades, is now known. Gerald claims he put
Virginia, Reagan and Richard in barrels and sunk the bodies to the bottom of
the deepest lake in Wyoming, Fremont Lake east of Pinedale.
Fremont County deputies have tried to
find those barrels, but to no avail.
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